Tag Archives: best food in Paraty

Brasil belissima…Paraty and Ilha Grande

11 Nov

I feel as though I am gloating slightly writing these posts, reveling in all the natural beauties of Brazil that I’ve been so lucky to see. But what I want to share are how my eyes have been opened. I can’t remember well what were my preconceptions of Brazil before I arrived. I think I thought of beaches, of samba, Carnival and was frightened by the stories of crimes and violence and wondered whether I would be able to walk around the streets feeling safe at all. And of course any country is so much richer than these surface images, with so many layers and contradictions. Brazil is certainly a rich tapestry, of peoples, history, food, music, culture and landscapes and the more I explore the richer it becomes.

Paraty

Paraty is an old colonial town, four hours bus ride from Rio de Janeiro but still within Rio de Janeiro State. Its nestled on the seas edge in a curving bay dotted with islands along the emerald green coast. Mountains rise beyond it, leading to Sao Paulo and Minas Gerais and the old gold trails that brought gold from the mines in the interior and made this town sumptuously rich. Boats would depart laden with the treasure to Europe, until the bay became too small for the ships and the town was mostly abandoned. This though has done wonders for its tourist industry, almost entirely preserving the old town complete with giant ankle-wrecking street stones and beautiful white-washed houses. It is picture-postcard perfect, a little too perfect, but lovely for a quiet stroll.

Hiring an brightly painted old fishing boat, decked out for tourists these days, gives you the best view of the town from the water and enabled us to explore the remote beaches, swim in crystal clear water with hundreds of dancing fish and turtles. The waterfalls in the mountains nearby are also famous along with their cachaça distilleries and daredevil antics, including one with an enormous rock you can slide down into the water. On your bum if you’re a visitor, surfing style if you’re a local (young man).

But my best memories are of the most delicious food that we ate at a tiny beachside restaurant called Quiosque Encantado (Enchanted Bar). It had just been started by a local couple and every night we went there they had a different incredible meal using local fresh ingredients. We sampled a local moceque (fish stew) cooked gently on the barbeque with banana, manioc and prawns in a clear rich broth imbibing it with a delicious smoky flavour. We ate fresh squid delicately grilled and seafood pasta with enormous quantities of perfectly cooked prawns, mussels and cockles collected from the beach in a divine tomato sauce. The food was out of this world, I can almost taste it whilst I’m writing this. With the sand under our feet and a full moon rising over the sea, it was idyllic.

If you are looking for it the bar is on Praia Jabaquara and is the kiosk furthest from Paraty, just after Restaurante La Luna. Enjoy!

Paraty from the sea

Paraty from the sea

Paraty's historic streets

Historic streets

Beach hopping

Beach hopping

Heading out of the sunshine

Heading out of the sunshine

Waterfalls in the verdant mountains

Waterfalls in the verdant mountains

David describing the best moqueca in the world!

David describing the best moqueca in the world!

Grilled fish and squid

Grilled fish and squid

and the perfect view..

and the perfect view..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ilha Grande

As if these earthly delights weren’t enough we travelled on to Ilha Grande (big island). It lies just off the coast, about 2 hours from Rio de Janeiro. The history of the island, most recently as a prison for the ‘most dangerous criminals’ in Brazil has resulted in its steeply ridged interior remaining covered in verdant Atlantic rainforest.  Stunning isolated beaches are dotted around the island, with azure waters, reachable only by boat or by trekking through the forest. Its a decadent lifestyle with sunbathing and relaxation punctuated only by dips in the sea, caiparinhas, walks in the forest and eating.

Heading towards Ilha Grande

Heading towards Ilha Grande

Relaxing with fantastic views - Praia Abraaozinho

Relaxing with fantastic views – Praia Abraaozinho

The only way to get around...

The only way to get around…

Sand so fine it crunches under the foot like snow and falls gently into the clear sea

Sand so fine it crunches under the foot like snow and falls gently into the clear sea

Walking through the forest around Ilha Grande

Walking through the forest around Ilha Grande

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